Tortola (and a day trip to Virgin Gorda)

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The first few months of 2004 were absolutely crazy, but not in a good way. I worked every day, including nights and weekends, and often in my sleep. So when it was finally over, Andy suggested a long weekend somewhere warm. So on Tuesday I called American Airlines attempting to get frequent flyer tickets. "It has to be warm, it can't be a spring break destination, and no more than one connection." Amazingly enough, three days later, with a carry-on bag full of bathing suits and sunscreen, we were on our way to Tortola :) THIS is why we have cats instead of children :))

We'd never been in high season, and in fact we'd only been to Tortola as a starting point for bareboat charters. A quick search on Expedia and the Traveltalk bulletin board led us to Sebastian's. Located in Little Apple Bay, this 26 room hotel is about as far away from our hectic life as we could get - without going to Jost Van Dyke :) It was a bit of a hoof from the Beef Island airport, and the cab driver wasn't that happy about taking us all the way out there, but it was worth it.

Our room (#6) was literally 10 feet from the water meaning we slept to the sound of the waves. And about the waves...there actually were some - complete with surfers and all. Little Apple Bay is also home to the Sugar Mill hotel and the Bomba shack (although we missed the full moon party by 3 days). We never saw more than a few other people - this is definitely what I needed to recover from the craziness.

Although we had everything we needed within 100 feet (beach, bar, restaurant serving lobsters as big as your torso, and a "superette" for supplies such as rum and bug repellent), we did actually leave our little beach a few times. One afternoon we hiked over the hill to Long Bay and Smugglers Cove (great beach and enough waves to be fun but not dangerous), and another afternoon we took a taxi to Cane Garden Bay. We now know why it's not the best overnight anchorage - there's actually surf!

The Baths, Virgin Gorda

We also spent a day at the Baths on Virgin Gorda. Yeah, yeah- we've been there before (in 1997 and in 2001) but we still love it. This time we hiked past Devils Bay and were surprised to find that there are 2 or 3 more nice secluded coves. We wonder how many people just stop at the bottom of the trail and never even see the grottos in the boulders on the trail to Devils Bay. We had the place to ourselves until about noon, when a group of obvious CSP's (cruise ship passengers) arrived. Lots of hairy men and women smoking cigarettes, wearing brightly colored speedos...what the heck type of cruise is this?? It's the "sailing ship" (air quotes because we're not sure if this boat ever sails) Club Med II. We quickly retreated to the Top of the Baths restaurant, which still serves fantastic bushwackers.