Zihuatanejo, Mexico

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For Memorial Day 2006 we spent a long weekend in Zihuatanejo (pronounced see-wah-tah-NEH-ho), Mexico which is on the Pacific coast of Mexico about 15 minutes South of Ixtapa and four hours north of Acapulco. Zihuatanejo is a quaint, laid-back, fishing village and we appreciated the absence of throngs of tourists. We were so relaxed that we didn't even take a lot of pictures!

Accommodations

We stayed at Brisas Del Mar, a small, inexpensive hotel on La Madera Beach. The cab from the airport took about 15 minutes and cost 290 pesos (only 180 pesos on the return trip though). It's an easy 10 minute walk along the beachside boardwalk into town and a very hilly 20 minute walk along backroads to La Ropa Beach. We recommend a cab for the latter. The hotel is set on a hillside, which means great views of the bay from just about everywhere and lots of steps to climb.


View from the hotel bar

We were in room 104, which was one set of stairs above the pool, three sets of stairs above the beach, and about six sets of stairs below the lobby. As long as you're in decent shape and aren't wearing uncomfortable shoes it's fine, but if you're remotely mobility impaired it would be a problem. The room was air conditioned and quite large, with a king sized bed, sofa, refrigerator, and television.

View from the room Daily flower arrangements Poolside

Dining

  • Paty's (La Ropa beach) - The food was decent but the location (right on the beach) and atmosphere (lots of tall palm trees, candlelight, and the sound of crashing waves) are great. (under 300 pesos for 2 with drinks)
  • Viva Mexico Restaurant (El Centro - Vincente Guerrero Street?) - This is one of those crowded local places with few tourists because it's a ways off the main street (but right near the banks which is how we found it). Excellent breakfast and super cheap price (under 100 pesos for 2).
  • Capricho's (5 de Mayo) - One of our favorites for sure. The bar area is pleasant, with ceiling fans, comfortable lounge furniture, interesting murals, and a great for people watching. The dining area is actually back off the street in a pleasant garden. Several fountains and mottled candlelight from hammered/pierced brass lanterns produce quite a relaxing environment. Oh, and the food is excellent too. (450 pesos for 2 with guacamole, drinks, and desert)
  • Danny's (Zihua waterfront) - There are numerous restaurants along the waterfront, but we only tried this one. Our breakfast was great and the location is great for people watching. (110 pesos for 2)
  • Bandito's (2 de Mayo) - Bandicoots also has a good location for people watching, and its corner location and ceiling fans made it a bit cooler than some other places farther in. They had a variety of items on the menu, including many shrimp dishes. (440 pesos for 2 with guacamole and drinks)
  • local place near banks (El Centro - Nicholas Bravo Street?)
  • Kau Kan - This restaurant is located high on a hill and close to Brisas del Mar. We'd read several good reviews on the internet (and in Bon Appetite magazine) so it was our one splurge dinner during the trip. All tables have an amazing view of the bay. The only light is from candle lanterns and hurricane lamps on the tables, and the sound of the ocean and subtle windchimes add to the experience. It was expensive for Zihua, but we both thought it was worth the price. (over 1000 pesos for 2, but I had the most expensive thing on the menu, we had many drinks, and appetizers and dessert).
  • Bistro del Mar - This restaurant, located on the beach at the Hotel Brisas del Mar, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Though the restaurant, like most in Zihua, is completely open (no doors or windows) the oversized awning provides good shade. The meals we ate there were good - breakfast one day (180 pesos for 2) and afternoon snacks a few times (guacamole, empenadas, etc.).

Activities

  • Surfing - We took a surfing lesson from Catcha l'Ola ("catch the wave") in Ixtapa. They took us to Playo Lindo beach, which is north of the main part of Ixtapa. It is a beautiful area (palm tree groves as far as you can see), and Ixtapa Island looked nice. According to our instructor, the waves were about 4 feet, but they look a lot larger when you're on your belly and tethered to a 7 foot surfboard.
  • Shopping - Our favorite shop, by a landslide, was Arte Mexicano Topal, located on 5 de Mayo street. They have an excellent selection of quality reproductions at great prices, and they do a great job at packing delicate items. If you're looking for the typical blankets, painted plates and bowls, etc. head for the market along 5 de Mayo street.
  • Sunning - The hotel pool area was nice, with lots of large umbrellas and comfortable padded lounge chairs. The hotel beach area had the same lounges under thatched palapas. Ixtapa is the place to go for beaches - it reminded us of Cable Beach in the Bahamas. In addition to a dozen or so high rise hotels, there's the usual assortment of water activities such as jet skis and parasailing.